South England – Part 2

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Oxford was a really beautiful and bicycle friendly city to stop by. Streets in the center were mostly pedestrian and crowded with tourist after 10am but some college courtyards and gardens stayed very quiet throughout the day.

Christchurch college was still a highlight for Harry Potter’s fan, because its rooms and stairs where used in the movies.

There are many towers and spires in the city and we found one we could climb up to overlook the Bodleian library.

Along the Thames, the cycle way was very pleasant and bordered with other ancient and venerable colleges whose gardens are very carefully maintained.

We visited the very eclectic Ashmolean museum and en exhibit about old maps in a new building of the Bodleian library and of course passed near the Bridge of Sighs, which actually looks more like the Rialto Bridge in Venice than to its homonym.

Bridge of Sighs

Luckily the weather was wonderful in Oxford, but not at all on the following day. We rode a bit more than 60km under the rain and missed pictures of the Thames riverside, and the cycleway right under the cooling towers of Didcot power station. It was a pleasant ride after all with a stop in a picturesque isolated inn in the Chiltern Hills again. We Spent the night in Reading.

Weather is changing quickly in Great Britain, so we were luckier early morning when riding on along the Thames river towards Windsor.

The little city was a bit crowded for its size and it was difficult to get a nice view of the huge royal castle. Nevertheless, the Cycle Route number 4 lead us for many kilometers inside the Windsor Great Park and it was a very nice ride though sign posting tended to disappear.

At the exit of the Park, we were again quite close to London. Heathrow airport was actually only 5km away and the Royal Castle is really under the planes’ path.

The river became wider and wider but we soon left it to head South to Woking. H.G. Wells was one of its famous residents.

We met our second Warmshowers hosts in Guildford and he pointed us to a nice way to go out of the city by following a little trail along the river.

Actually the full day was on a little trail called the Downs Link. It was a former railway extending from Guildford to the coast and now really practical for cyclists. It was supposed to be a part of the National Cycle Network but it had its own signage « Downs Link ».

It lead us directly to Shoreham-by-Sea, aside from any traffic.

From there, we rejoined cycle route number 2 along the South Coast, on a part I already rode in another direction back in 2015 when cycling from Paris to Scotland.

The coast is largely an urban area untill the buzzing city of Brighton. It was windy on the famous Pier and cosy in the little alleys full of jewelries of the city center. In the middle of all this stands the Royal Pavilion with its odd Indian architecture that is the city’s symbol.

The coast between Brighton and Newhaven became quieter with nice clifftop trails. At some point we crossed Greenwich meridian at a place marked by a monument.

And we finally reached Newhaven some hours before our scheduled departure.

Our return to France occured by night, which is not very comfortable because the crossing is short (5 hours). Besides that the arrival in the morning was far too early for the first train and we had to wait a couple of hours outside Dieppe train station while it was pouring rain.


Overall it made an about 800 kilometers loop.

Map with stops

 

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South England – Part 1

This summer I made a thirteen days bicycle trip in South-East England with Julien. We left Paris with two regional trains to the port of Dieppe and then took a ferry to Newhaven, East Sussex.

Crossing the English Channel took about four hours in the middle of the day and we started cycling late in the afternoon the first day. Wind pushed us easily towards East along the beach of Seaford. And then a bit inland uphill to cross a branch of the South Downs Hills to Eastbourne. Along the way we met the Long Man of Wilmington, one of the hill figures on the slopes of South England.

We spent the night in an airbnb with a lovely couple in Pevensey Bay. We didn’t take any camping gear for that trip and used bed & breakfasts and sometimes the hospitality of hosts from the warmshowers.org cycle travelers community.

Th second day, we rode on along National Cycle Route number two. It was well signposted and easy to follow. We first passed Bexhill and Hastings, two seaside cities with large promenades and piers.

After a little way up and downhill, we reached the cute medieval village of Rye, with cobbled winding streets and walls. A bit of rain tried to ruin our stop here but was quickly pushed away by the still strong wind. The wind seemed to make kite-surfing quite popular in Camber Sands.

The route went then inland in the Romney Marsh. The nuclear power station of Dungeness stayed in view for a long time while making our way along the little countryside  roads of this flat area. Arriving on the Royal Military Canal, we were surprised to watch giraffes and other exotic animals, not knowing about Port Lympne Safari Park before.

Our hosts in Folkestone welcomed us arms open for a very nice and restful evening.

Folkestone center looked great in the morning light. We then had to climb above all those famous white cliffs between here, Dover and a bit further east. It was a highlight of the route along the coast and we started to catch a glimpse of the French coast on the other side of the English Channel.

Dover was a busy transport city whose center we didn’t really cross. It was dominated by a huge castle offering a steep climb.

Dover Castle

The route after Dover was a nice way downhill through little roads and villages before reaching the East coast around Deal. This time we started following National Cycle Route number one. But we soon left it to make a detour around the Viking Coastal Trail around the former isle of Thanet. We rode through Ramsgate, Broadstairs and Margate, three Victorian seaside towns on top of little white cliffs. Those cliffs make a natural arch near Botany Bay.

We spent the night on the last floor of a Victorian house in Ramsgate and the following day started under the rain on the road to Canterbury. We found again National Route number one and were a bit disappointed by the city because it was impossible to get close to its famous cathedral with our bikes. The city center was really busy with tourists, even in the morning.

The weather slowly improved in the afternoon on our way to Sittingbourne were we spent the night.

Bicycles Near Conyer

The route made complicated detour, sometimes following the coast, sometimes not and we reached Rochester which had a big cathedral and castle. Inside the cathedral was a mini golf course for childrens.

Then we started following the Thames river towards London, at one place following a narrow singletrack trail along the Cray river. A strange mix of natural wetlands and industrial estate.

We spent the night in the really quiet suburb of Belvedere, still around 30km away from the city center.

In the morning we quickly rejoined the Thames at the Thames Barrier, a very scenic dam to prevent flooding from the tide. The route along the river was then a very pleasant ride around Greenwich peninsula with great sights on Canary Wharf skyline.

Next to the Cutty Sark museum ship, we crossed Greenwich pedestrian tunnel to ride under the towers of Canary Wharf financial districts. Many high-rise buildings were still under construction. London skyline is always changing.

We reached more famous landmarks throughout the day like the tower bridge, St-Paul Cathedral, the Millenium bridge, the Tate Modern Museum, the London Eye and the British Parliament. Big Ben was sadly hidden under scaffolding.

Going out of the city was a less easy task than going in, because to the North-West, there is no major cycle route. So from Covent Garden we reached Primrose Hill and then found signs to Wembley, but not much further. We had to find our own route to Watford where we spent the night after a long day cycling only in the city.

The following day, we rode in front of Warner Bros Harry Potter’s studios and then crossed the Chiltern Hills on the highest route of our trip (around 250m in altitude). The weather stayed really gray with a few showers but still a pleasant ride until we reached Oxford. As the furthest place north of the trip and an unknown city for both of us, it deserved a full day visit.

Adventures go on here >>

 

Oslo

It has been a long time since I last practiced written English here. So I’m switching from French to English to tell about my last trip to Oslo.

The Norwegian capital is a short two hours flight from Paris. The airport is located in a valley that was hidden under a thick blanket of fog. The trains to the city are fast, even the slower ones, and half an hour is all it takes to reach the sunbathed fjord of Oslo.

The first afternoon of our stay was really sunny. The light was quite unusual as it felt like an ending afternoon at 2pm. The sun stayed always low on the horizon but the days weren’t much shorter than in Paris despite the 11° difference in latitude. Perfect weather for a walk on the seafront.

Oslo harbour

In the back of the harbour stands the 1950s city hall, a huge red brick building with its very recognizable two towers.

Oslo City Hall

Oslo seafront undergoes massive reconstruction to be more appealing to both residents and visitors. One part around the Fearnley-Astrup museum is finished in a very modern style, with high standard condos, offices, cafés and restaurants. It faces the old citadel, the only really old sight in Oslo. The citadel is surrounded by docks for cruise ships and long distance ferries to Denmark.

Oslo cruise ship and citadel

Oslo modern buildings

In front of the Fearnley-Astrup museum, which is a contemporary art museum, stands the same sculpture as at the Louisiana in Denmark (last picture of this 2010 article).

The eyes

This modern neighborhood is not very lively, too clean and new, but with very interesting architecture.

Oslo modern buildings

Oslo modern buildings

Oslo modern buildings

Oslo modern buildings

Oslo modern buildings

The industrial harbour facing the neighborhood awaits to be transformed too.

Oslo harbour and cranes

Around the citadel, it has another atmosphere. Everything is not as clean where the cruise ship is anchored. Crowds of cyclists are going back on the ship. A bit further, people are fishing and the smells get closer to those of what you might expect from a harbour.

Oslo Akershus citadel

The entrance of Oslo harbour is marked by a very small lighthouse.

Kavringen lighthouse

East of the citadel, another part of the seafront has been totally transformed by the construction of the new opera. Like Sydney or Copenhagen, Oslo fancies its opera surrounded by water and wishes it will become a distinctive landmark.

Oslo opera

The opera roof is walkable to the top. It offers a view toward the city center, beyond which the ski jump tower of Holmenkollen is visible.

Oslo by night

Between the opera and the central train station, a new neighborhood has emerged. It seems to be mostly offices and hotels.

Oslo, next to central station and opera by night

Oslo opera

This dream weather couldn’t last and we spent the following days mainly in museums, as far as their short opening times permitted it. By far the most interesting is the Fram museum. The museum focuses on the polar expeditions led by Norway at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century.

Next to the museum, a monument pictures Roald Amundsen and his crew who were the first to reach the south pole on the 14th of December 1911.

South pole monument

Inside the museum are 2 ships: the Gjøa which is the first ship to have sailed the northwest passage and the Fram which was built to support sea ice pressure and was freezed in an attempt to float through the north pole.

Gjøa

Then we walked back towards the center crossing the Frogner park. The park is mostly known for its hundreds of Gustav Vigeland sculptures of naked bodies.

Vigeland park

In the center of the park stands a column made of 121 human bodies sculpted in a single 17m high stone and thus called the monolith.

Vigeland's monolith

The other sculptures are no less strange.

Vigeland sculpture around the monolith

Vigeland sculpture

Vigeland sculpture

The Frogner park is less than half an hour walk from the center, so we went on hoping to cross the royal palace gardens. But those are only open to public from june to august. Anyway the palace itself is not outstanding.

Oslo royal palace

Not far from there, the university as the same classical architecture.

Oslo university

On the following day, we visited the Munch museum which had an interesting exhibit showing the parallel works of Edvard Munch and Gustav Vigeland. And then we went to the National Gallery to see more of Munch work, including its most famous painting: the scream.

The weather went a bit better on the last day of our stay. We took the subway to Holmenkollen which unfortunately stayed hidden in a heavy fog. The subway is actually underground only in the center and then rides slowly uphill in the residential neighborhoods and a bit of forest.

Holmenkollen

The 360° view over the city and the fjord is supposed to be amazing.

Holmenkollen ski jump tower

The ski museum was very interesting, despite what our guidebook said about it.

When we came back to the center, the fog was up and Holmenkollen was perfectly visible from the citadel.

Holmenkollen from Oslo citadel

But just enough time remained for a short walk before heading to the airport. From the citadel, the new neighborhood we walked through the first day on the other side of the harbour has a nice look under the ever low October sun. The building shaped as a sail is the Fearnley-Astrup museum.

Fearnley-Astrup museum

Oslo harbour

We had a last look to the Opera, by daylight this time, before catching a train to the airport.

Oslo Opera

 

Wandering around in North Rhine-Westphalia

Only 3 hours away from Paris with the Thalys is a corner of Germany I did not have the opportunity to explore until now. So I packed for a one week trip through the Land of North Rhine-Westphalia, or at least through a few of its prominent cities outside of the Rhur area.

I made a selection, but there are still 58 pictures in this article.

Cologne

My first stop was Cologne. I arrived right after the carnival and the city was still cleaning itself from its joyfully messy festivities. Sticky streets and broken glass bottles everywhere.

First thing you can’t miss arriving in Cologne is the enormous Gothic cathedral which stands right outside the main station. As soon as the morning fog started to fade away, I climbed the many stairs of the south tower. Looking towards East, on the left of the cathedral roof you can see a part of the train station and the rails crossing the Rhine on the Hohenzollern bridge. On the right is the Ludwig Museum, a museum of modern art.

Hohenzollern bridge from Cologne cathedral

Looking south is the recognizable shape of the Groß Sankt Martin Church, surrounded by the older part of town.

Gross Sankt Martin am Fischmarkt

The center has been bombed flat during WWII and calling a part of it « old » is always exaggerated. Some parts have been reconstructed identical, but most of the center is now a modern city which makes the two main pedestrian streets look like a shopping mall.

Cologne center seen from the cathedral

Looking West is the new neighborhood of mediapark with its lonely skyscraper and the TV tower Colonius.

Colonius and Mediapark seen from Cologne cathedral

The city hall has a very nice old octagonal tower from the XVth century, rebuilt after the war.

Cologne Rathaus tower

The city center was surrounded by a series of walls from the Roman and medieval eras. Some little hints remain like the gate of the Rudolf Platz. The carnival obviously went through it.

Rudolf Platz gate

The Mediapark area is  a modern corner of the city. It looks like the cathedral is not far and is reflecting on the glass building, but it’s only a clever painting.

Cologne mediapark

On my way back to the center, I stumbled upon this strange sculpture of a golden car with wings. Even if there are bicycles everywhere, cars are still at the center of German culture.

Cologne flying car

The Hohenzollern bridge is a popular walk for both locals and tourists and is full of love locks. From there you overlook the Rhine riverside which is a pleasant promenade too.

Gross Sankt Martin and crane buildings in Cologne

The bridge leads to the Deutz neighborhood which offers the nicest views on the city skyline. You can recognize from previous pictures from left to right: the city hall tower, the Groß Sankt Martin, Colonius and the cathedral.

Cologne Skyline

The cathedral main facade is at its best before sunset, when the golden light softens the very dark stones.

Cologne cathedral West facade

I was hosted by a really friendly couple of travelers. They were back from a 2 years bicycle trip from Europe to New-Zealand and had plenty of stories to tell. They let me borrow one of their old bike the next day so I could tour the city parks that form a green belt around Cologne, as well as the Rhine riverside.

Cologne bicycle signs

The green belt stretches especially in the South and West of the city  and there are nice forests and ponds there. I cycled back to the center through the Colonius and Mediapark area.

Colonius and the Gazelle bicycle

Then I visited the chocolate museum and followed the Rhine several kilometers upstream before riding back. It was a really pleasant journey through the modern harbor area and also along the beach.

Cologne crane buildings

The Rhine South of Cologne

Here is a quick map of my bicycle ride in the surroundings of Cologne.

Bonn

The next day I left for Bonn, former capital city of the Federal Republic of Germany. The train ride between Cologne and Bonn is only 17 minutes.

Bonn is a lot smaller than Cologne and has a very different atmosphere. It looks richer with a lot of big houses and its center is really compact around 3 pleasant squares.

I walked West to the Poppelsdorf castle and its nice botanic garden. It was still early to find much interest in the botanic garden even if the weather was again very sunny and warm enough, but the place is really pleasant and peaceful.

Poppelsdorf

I went on to the West up to the hill of the Kreuzberg Kirche. A baroque church with strange stairs inside instead of the usual flat interior.

Inside Kreuzberg Kirche

Kreuzberg Kirche

I expected more views towards the city center from this hill, but the forest is too dense for that.

On the way back to town I stopped in the very interesting Landesmuseum. It hosted an exhibit of old photographs and I already saw part of it because they were borrowed from the Albert Khan museum in Boulogne. I liked the modern building with its wood and glass facade.

Bonn Rheinishes Landesmuseum

The most well-known kid from Bonn is the composer Ludwig van Beethoven. There are several statues of him scattered around the city. I didn’t visit his birthplace house but it seemed to be what tourists usually do because, without asking anything, that’s the only thing that the tourist office pointed out on the city map I took.

Bonn Postamt and Beethoven statue

I don’t know exactly the difference between a Dom and a Münster. But the main church in Bonn is a Münster, not a Dom (cathedral) like in Cologne.

Bonn Münster

The most prominent building in Bonn is the university which is right in the center too. You can spot the Münster tower on the left.

Bonn university

The Rhine is also flowing through Bonn and the city stretches along it on several kilometers. In the southern part of the city are the two skyscrapers from the Post and UN and on the left you can barely distinguish the first hills of the romantic Rhine.

The Rhine in Bonn

Among the center’s squares, the one in front of the city hall was one of the most pleasant.

Bonn Rathaus

Street in Bonn center

I met my hosts in Bonn in the evening and we had a delicious dinner together. As it was the beginning of a very sunny weekend, we decided to go for a bike tour the next day along the Rhine and the Ahr valley.

South of Bonn starts the romantic part of the Rhine. Surrounded with hills and cliffs on each sides, sometimes topped with a ruin , the river flows in a sinuous way. Above the village of Königswinter are the ruins of Drachenfels and on the left the XIXth century castle Drachenburg.

Drachenfels from Königswinter

Then we crossed the village of Unkel which has nice timbered houses.

A street in Unkel

On the other bank is the Appolinaris Kirsche. As you can see, the traffic stays busy on the Rhine.

Appolinaris Kirche

A few kilometers further, we crossed a second village with timbered houses called Erpel. From there we crossed the Rhine to Remagen.

House in Erpel

We crossed the Rhine on a ferry because the bridge that once linked both villages collapsed at the end of WWII and had never been rebuilt. I had never heard about this bridge before but I just saw the movie Monuments Men and there is a short passage in Remagen where you can spot the bridge in the background.

Under the cliffs of the Erpeler Ley you can still see today the piles of the bridge.

Erpeler Ley and remains of the Remagen Bridge

From Remagen we rode up the Ahr valley until the very well preserved village of Ahrweiler which reminded me a lot the wine route in Alsace. There were many tourists enjoying like us ice creams in the sun (first ice cream of the year), and buying also wine because the Ahr valley (Ahrtal) is also locally called red wine valley (Rotweintal).

Ahrweiler gate

Street in Ahrweiler

House with teapot in Ahrweiler

Bakers sign in Ahrweiler

After the village, the valley was getting narrower and we finally saw the vineyards, very impressively stacked against the steep hills.

Ahrtal vineyards

The bicycle path followed an old railway tunnel and we stopped right after it in Mayschoß.

Here is a map of the ride.

We went back to Bonn by train and after leaving my hosts I took another train to Düsseldorf in the evening, only one hour away.

Düsseldorf

The capital of the Land North Rhine-Westphalia was a pleasant surprise. It wasn’t really on my route when I first thought about this trip in Germany but I don’t regret visiting this vibrant city.

I met my host upon arrival there and we went for a tour (on bikes again) to see what Düsseldorf had to offer on a Saturday night. I tried to take night pictures, but it was difficult to maintain focus. So here is the one that is okay. On the other side, the TV tower (Rheinturm)  has lights that make a giant clock, supposedly the largest digital clock in the world.

Ddorf TV tower and Gehry building at night

After this first glimpse of the city we went on with what we can call a pub crawl in the Altstadt.

Sunday was the hottest day of this week in Germany, over 20°C. So I toured the city on the bike I borrowed from my host and he accompanied me for some time.

The Altstadt has some old buildings and a very lively pedestrian area.

Twisted church in Düsseldorf

Düsseldorf rathaus

South of the Altstadt is the modern neighborhood called the Media Harbor. And in between stands the Rheinturm. I went on the observation deck, 168m high, which gives very impressive views over the city. You can guess how great the weather was by the number of people lying in the grass.

Düsseldorf centre form Rheinturm

On the other side is the Media Harbor.

Media harbor from Rheinturm

This part of the city as really outstanding buildings and I enjoyed riding around the area.

Roggendorf-Haus

The most famous buildings are the three dancing houses by architect Frank Gehry.

Rheinturm and Gehry buildings

The « city gate » is also a very modern trapeze shaped building with a very large atrium which allows you to see through it.

Düsseldorfer Stadttor

The most famous street of Düsseldorf is the Königs Allee, or Kö, because of its luxury shops. I didn’t really like it despite the canal in its center that makes it a nice walk. But there are here also some interesting new buildings.

New building at the northern end of the Kö

Later that day we rode to the remote Kiefern Strasse in which every single building is painted, making the all street a piece of art. A nice dicovery I wouldn’t have done without my host to show me the way.

Riding policeman in Kiefern Strasse

Crosswords in Kiefern Strasse

Then we had dinner in a typical Düsseldorfer Brauhaus. Perhaps the most german meal I had this week.

The next morning I left for the next and last city of this trip: Aachen, more well-known for French people under the name Aix-la-Chapelle.

Aachen

Aachen looks very different from the cities along the Rhine. Here, there is no river to open the city and the center is really compact with winding streets and a bit hilly because it lies at the northern limit of the Eifel mountains. So this makes the city a bit disorientating.

A street in Aachen

The main sight in Aachen is its cathedral. Charlemagne built an octagonal basilica first and over the centuries there were additions that make the cathedral a very unique building today.

Aachen cathedral

The building is really worth a visit. It is an important pilgrimage destination in Germany and there are a few relics like clothes from the Christ and the Virgin and also the throne of Charlemagne made from marble stones from the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. So that makes a lot of priceless holy items. The cathedral experienced major restorations since the 80s and is now splendid for celebrating Charlemagne’s death 1200th anniversary this year.

The city hall is also an interesting building adapted from the medieval castle.

Back of the city hall of Aachen

At a corner of the city hall there is still a medieval inn, the Postwagen.

Medieval inn and Aachen Rathaus

From its fortifications, Aachen has still a couple of standing gates.

Aachen gate

The theater looks like a Greek temple.

Aachen theater

I walked all day around the center and went up on the Lousberg, a small hill north of the city center. This is the only place where you have a view over the city. You can see the city hall with the cathedral behind it and the gate a bit left in the back.

Aachen from the Lousberg

Church on the Lousberg

I met my host, an enthusiastic new couchsurfer, in the evening and we had diner out with friends. I didn’t pay attention to that during the day, but next to the Elisenbrunnen fountain, one  of the most prominent sign of the thermal activity in Aachen, it doesn’t smell good because of the sulfur concentration of the water.

The last day of my trip, I decided to go for a hike outside of Aachen (I bought a hiking map earlier in Cologne while spending too much time  in the giant outdoor shop Globetrotter). Despite its 240 000 inhabitants, Aachen is really compact and you are pretty quickly in the forest.

I walked for two hours until I reached the Dreiländereck: the border point between Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands. Unfortunately it was foggy and I didn’t had any views over the city in the morning.

Dreiländereck

I also reached another impressive landmark, located just 50m away: the highest point of the Netherlands (at least continental Netherlands). That’s 322.5m high, so you imagine how tough it was to climb up there.

Netherland highest point

Otherwise, the hike was mostly in the forest, with at some point a TV tower that emerged suddenly out of the trees like a giant UFO. It seems german have a thing for TV towers. By the way, Düsseldorf Rheinturm, with a 240m height, is only the 10th highest TV tower in Germany.

Aachen TV tower

Aachen countryside

As you would expect, I made a map for this hike.

I took a Thalys back to Paris in the evening to end this German week. This was a great week with a terrific weather for March. My colleagues were a bit surprised to see my tan (Really? You’ve been to Germany?). I met great people there that were very friendly and hospitable and I have to thank them because they are for a large part responsible for the pleasure I had during this trip.